Monday, August 27, 2007

learning from india

I know I stopped posting half-way through my trip; I'm really sorry. The truth was I got crazy busy. And I figured it's better to live life than to write about what had happened - so here I am retroactively posting - not in any particular order.

Anyway, I wanted to share this in particular, it was a requirement for the program that sent me to India (IRES funded through the NSO). At the end of our internship they asked us to write a little cultural essay, 400-700 words, about our experience. This was what I sent them:


You asked us to write about our cultural experience here in India, something short, something that sums up the time that we’ve had here. But really, I don’t feel that I can summarize all of the things that I have been thinking, all of the problems that I’ve been trying to reconcile. I came here expecting everything and nothing, side-by-side. It was only once I was on the plane did I realize what I was doing. The first two weeks here were horrible and I regretted the trip. This last week, my penultimate in India, I have felt nothing but melancholy at the thought of leaving. To better describe my experience and the obvious transformation that I have undergone, I give you my thoughts condensed:

What I Have Learned From India

• Most of what we worry about never happens.
• Westerners are naked here, often on the fringes of their personality.
• Don’t take yourself too seriously. Some things are just too ridiculous to get angry about. And when you do get angry, you usually feel terrible for it afterwards. Laughing is much easier.
• People will blatantly stare.
• Any timeframe given in India will take, in actuality, twice that amount.
• Chaos is found in the city, peace in the country. Take as many weekend trips as possible.
• Always make sure that the rickshaw driver repeats back to you your destination. Also, calling them “boss” usually helps.
• Google-maps are practically useless here.
• This is the best place to be a vegetarian.
• Monkeys really will come into your apartment if you leave the balcony door open.
• Wearing a sari is not as easy as it looks. In fact, it’s rather difficult, but they can be comfortable. Sleeping in a choli hurts the next day.
• Anything out of the ordinary that you need done, as a westerner, will either be done quickly to the inconvenience of all those around, or it will take years.
• Culture shock is not like jet-lag: you cannot get over it in a week.
• Most people here would rather tell you the wrong answer or direction rather than tell you they don’t know.
• Eating at a restaurant will never take less than two hours.
• Everything costs money for a westerner. And all the peddlers will pounce on you.
• Always bring toilet paper. Always. No exceptions. And know what “western toilet” means.
• It’s okay to still be affected by the poverty. Maybe even a good thing.
• A westerner will never be, could never be, part of India. You will always be an observer – no matter how hard you try.
• Describing the food you are eating by its color is, sometimes, your only option (“This is the best green stuff I’ve had!” – Russell).
• Some conveniences are priceless. Others are not all that they are cracked up to be. The trick is knowing which is which.
• Follow through on recommendations given by other expats. They tend to be tried and true.
• Get use to the bugs and the dust. They get everywhere. Including your computer.
• Consider malaria pills part of your breakfast.
• As funny as the head wobble is, you will find yourself doing it at some point.
• When a peddler says, “It’s okay” and shoves something into your lap, it’s not okay. Refuse. Over and over again.
• Don’t always expect a warm shower because the power will go out – often.
• Don’t be afraid to ask for your food to be “not spicy” – because it will still be spicy, it just won’t burn your tongue off.
• Never refuse an invitation from an Indian family. If nothing else, it will make a good story later.
• Watch your step. Cows poop everywhere.
• Pick out your own fruit.
• “Alone time” and “privacy” are western concepts.
• As daunting as it may appear, go out into the city. It’s well worth it. The markets are the best.
• Even though any NIR (non-resident Indian) will tell you that everyone in India speaks English – do not listen to them. Some people speak some broken English, so learn how to gesture well and speak in simple phrases.
• The bucket in the bathroom is for a standing bath. Or for shaving your legs. Or both.
• You will tower over everyone. Learn to duck your head when going into restaurants. Especially in Goa.
• Watch a Bollywood movie and going to a “Bollywood Night” at a dance club is something that you can only do, and should only do, in India.
• You cannot fend off the mosquitoes, as much as you may try.
• Be thankful that your olfactory nerves are oversaturated after ~10 seconds.
• You tip 10% of the bill.
• Street signs are almost non-existent. Your best bet is to look at the business signs as you are driving by and read the address at the bottom if you want to know what road you are on.
• Saris requires buying a petticoat and having a choli made for you.
• Indians can wear any color in existence – realize that white people cannot.
• Making other foreign friends is priceless. Talking about being a westerner in India is validating and consoling. Commiseration means everything because, in reality, you are not alone – as isolated as you might feel.
• Experience leads to loneliness.
• Opt for the A/C section of restaurants.
• The monsoon is nice after living in the desert. Except when you have to take a rickshaw ride in it.
• You can find love in the places that you least expect it.


Translated from German and slightly altered: I lost my heart in Bangalore.

~ natalie =)